Reissdorf Kolsch

My very first article, printed in June, 2010

In deference to the first day of summer, and the accompanying warmth of the past week, I needed to find a beer that is refreshing in nature. The classic beer style for this is the ubiquitous golden lager, which includes Pilsners as well as American beers such as Budweiser, but instead I decided to try an example of the often overlooked Kölsch style named Reissdorf Kölsch.

The Kölsch style was developed around the beginning of the 20^th century in the city of Cologne, Germany, where it became available as an alternative to the German Pilsner lagers of the time. The style slowly grew more popular over the course of the last century, rebounding strongly after the destruction of the vast majority of the breweries during World War II. The name Kölsch is now a protected designation of origin, which limits the production to breweries in and around the style’s native town of Cologne; however, the United States, as well as many other countries outside the European Union, do not recognize or enforce the PDO, so some breweries have begun to produce local examples of the style. In 1986, the remaining 24 breweries in Cologne producing Kölsch created the Kölsch convention, a code of competition that now regulates all market developments for the Kölsch style, which describes the beer as a “light, highly attenuated, hop-accentuated, clear top-fermenting Vollbier.”

The Reissdorf Kölsch is brewed by the Privatbrauerei Henrich Reissdorf, which was founded in 1894 by Heinrich Reißdorf in the Severinsviertel quarter of Cologne. In 1998 the company moved to a new facility where they now produce over 500,000 barrels per year. The brewery is still family owned and operated, and is currently continuing into the fourth generation. The brewery has helped to create the Kölsch style from earlier Wiess beers, which had significantly more wheat and yeast characteristics.

The Kölsch style utilizes a top-fermenting ale yeast but is often brewed at the lower temperatures typical of lagers, after which the beer is stored cold for a month or more to allow particulates to settle out. The lower temperature fermentation suppresses the production of esters, preventing an overly-fruity aroma in the beer, although the presence of some fruity characteric is common. The hop aroma is optional in this style, and if it is present it should be from one of the noble hops. The beer should appear clear and light golden in color with a delicate white head that may quickly disperse. The beer should taste soft and rounded, balancing a slightly sweet malt flavor with a dry finish and hints of fruity esters. Overall this should be a clean, crisp delicately balanced beer with hints of fruitiness, although it is commonly mistaken for a weak Pilsner.

This beer should be served at a cellar temperature, or roughly 50°F, and the glass of choice is called a Stange. This piece of glassware has traditionally been made specifically for serving Kölsch, possessing vertical sides with a large height to diameter ratio but a small overall volume of only 0.2 Liters.

The beer pours with a thin white head which slowly dissipates, leaving a ring against the glass but no lacing on the sides. The beer is clear with no haze, which is not surprising since this beer has been lagered and filtered, and has a light golden color. There is surprising little aroma, although malt and a very faint scent of pear are evident. The carbonation level is moderately high, although the mouth feel is surprisingly creamy for this level of carbonation, almost reminiscent of a nitrogen beer. The first taste is a malty sweetness but this quickly disappears, leaving a dry finish with a hint of biscuity malt flavor. When first served there was little or no bitterness, but a slightly bitter finish became evident as the beer warmed. Overall, the beer was clean and light with a slightly creamy mouth feel and pleasant malt focus, although hop bitterness and a trace of fruity aroma were evident.

This is actually my first taste of a traditional Kölsch, and I must say that I was surprised. The beer is quite well rounded, and yet provided a refreshing crispness on a hot day. I recommend trying this style over the summer as a counterpoint to the more common pilsner, especially when you have some time to relax and appreciate the complex balance of the beer.